
When you arrive, columns of smoke rise all around you. The air is filled with the smell of burning wood, but not quite like the familiar scent we know.
On the outskirts of Serra San Bruno, surrounded by lush nature that provides an exceptional source of raw material, traditional charcoal production is still very much alive. Among the trees, enormous black mounds conceal a craft that dates back thousands of years.
It all begins with the construction of a kind of central chimney, around which the charcoal makers carefully stack the logs. Nothing is left to chance: each piece of wood is positioned according to its size and shape. The logs are arranged in three layers, gradually forming an imposing structure.
The whole mound is then covered with straw, followed by a thick layer of earth. Embers are placed inside the central shaft before its top is sealed. A few strategically positioned openings allow the airflow to be controlled and the combustion process to be maintained.
The result? An enormous, smoking black cone containing several tonnes of wood slowly undergoing transformation.
The aim is not to burn the wood, but to turn it gradually into charcoal by removing its moisture through a carefully controlled combustion process.
Throughout the entire operation, the charcoal makers take turns working day and night. The mound must be constantly monitored, the airflow adjusted and the heat carefully controlled to prevent the embers from going out or, worse still, the wood from catching fire.
It is demanding work that requires patience, stamina and, above all, experience. A skill passed down from one generation to the next and learned through hands-on practice.
It takes around twenty days to complete the process. Even in the final stages, the charcoal makers’ trained eye remains essential: they can tell whether the wood has finished transforming largely by observing the colour of the smoke.
The charcoal produced in this way, renowned for its quality, is mainly supplied to the kitchens of fine restaurants, where cooking over charcoal embers takes pride of place.
So, the next time you enjoy a dish cooked over charcoal, you may find yourself looking at the charcoal that gave it that distinctive flavour in a different light.
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